{"id":7330,"date":"2021-04-19T09:34:02","date_gmt":"2021-04-19T06:34:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/journals.khnu.km.ua\/vestnik\/?p=7330"},"modified":"2021-08-05T15:25:27","modified_gmt":"2021-08-05T12:25:27","slug":"%d1%80%d0%be%d0%b7%d1%80%d0%be%d0%b1%d0%bb%d0%b5%d0%bd%d0%bd%d1%8f-%d0%b2%d0%b7%d1%83%d1%82%d1%82%d1%8f-%d0%b2-%d1%81%d1%82%d0%b8%d0%bb%d1%96-%d0%b3%d1%80%d0%b0%d0%bd%d0%b6-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/journals.khnu.km.ua\/vestnik\/?p=7330","title":{"rendered":"\u0420\u043e\u0437\u0440\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f \u0432\u0437\u0443\u0442\u0442\u044f \u0432 \u0441\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0456 \u0433\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0436"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

\u0420\u041e\u0417\u0420\u041e\u0411\u041b\u0415\u041d\u041d\u042f \u0412\u0417\u0423\u0422\u0422\u042f \u0412 \u0421\u0422\u0418\u041b\u0406 \u0413\u0420\u0410\u041d\u0416<\/p>\n

DEVELOPMENT OF GRANGE STYLE SHOES<\/p>\n

\u0421\u0442\u043e\u0440\u0456\u043d\u043a\u0438: 192-197. \u041d\u043e\u043c\u0435\u0440: \u21161, 2021 (293)<\/strong> \"\"<\/a>
\n\u0410\u0432\u0442\u043e\u0440\u0438:<\/strong>
\n\u0422.\u041c. \u041b\u0418\u041f\u0421\u042c\u041a\u0418\u0419, \u041d.\u0412. \u041f\u0415\u0420\u0412\u0410\u042f, \u0410.\u0406. \u0411\u0410\u0411\u0418\u0427
\n\u041a\u0438\u0457\u0432\u0441\u044c\u043a\u0438\u0439 \u043d\u0430\u0446\u0456\u043e\u043d\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0438\u0439 \u0443\u043d\u0456\u0432\u0435\u0440\u0441\u0438\u0442\u0435\u0442 \u0442\u0435\u0445\u043d\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0433\u0456\u0439 \u0442\u0430 \u0434\u0438\u0437\u0430\u0439\u043d\u0443
\n\u0422. LIPSKYI, N. PERVAIA, \u00a0\u0410. BABYCH
\nKyiv National University of Technology and Design
\nDOI:<\/strong> https:\/\/www.doi.org\/10.31891\/2307-5732-2021-293-1-192-197<\/a>
\n\u0420\u0435\u0446\u0435\u043d\u0437\u0456\u044f\/Peer review :<\/strong> 02.02.2021 \u0440.
\n\u041d\u0430\u0434\u0440\u0443\u043a\u043e\u0432\u0430\u043d\u0430\/Printed :<\/strong> 10.03.2021 \u0440.<\/p>\n

\u0410\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0430\u0446\u0456\u044f \u043c\u043e\u0432\u043e\u044e \u043e\u0440\u0438\u0433\u0456\u043d\u0430\u043b\u0443<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\n\u0420\u043e\u0437\u0440\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u0430 \u043a\u043e\u043d\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0446\u0456\u044f \u0432\u0437\u0443\u0442\u0442\u044f, \u0442\u0435\u0445\u043d\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0433\u0456\u0447\u043d\u0456 \u0435\u0442\u0430\u043f\u0438\u00a0 \u0439\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0432\u0438\u0433\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f \u0437\u0430 \u0456\u043d\u0434\u0438\u0432\u0456\u0434\u0443\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0438\u043c \u0437\u0430\u043c\u043e\u0432\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f\u043c \u0442\u0430 \u043f\u043e\u0435\u0442\u0430\u043f\u043d\u0430 \u0442\u0435\u0445\u043d\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0433\u0456\u044f \u0444\u0456\u043d\u0456\u0448\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u043e\u0437\u0434\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f \u0433\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0432\u0438\u0445 \u0432\u0438\u0440\u043e\u0431\u0456\u0432,.
\n\u0420\u043e\u0437\u0440\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043e \u043f\u0430\u043a\u0435\u0442 \u043a\u043e\u043d\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0443\u043a\u0442\u043e\u0440\u0441\u044c\u043a\u043e-\u0442\u0435\u0445\u043d\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0433\u0456\u0447\u043d\u043e\u0457 \u0434\u043e\u043a\u0443\u043c\u0435\u043d\u0442\u0430\u0446\u0456\u0457 \u043d\u0430 \u0432\u0438\u0440\u043e\u0431\u0438 \u0434\u0430\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0441\u0435\u0433\u043c\u0435\u043d\u0442\u0443.
\n\u0412\u0438\u0433\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043e \u0437\u0440\u0430\u0437\u043a\u0438 \u043c\u043e\u0434\u0435\u043b\u0435\u0439 \u0447\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0432\u0456\u0447\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0432\u0437\u0443\u0442\u0442\u044f \u0432 \u0441\u0442\u0438\u043b\u0456 \u0433\u0440\u0430\u043d\u0436 \u0437 \u0440\u0456\u0437\u043d\u0438\u043c \u043a\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0440\u0438\u0441\u0442\u0438\u0447\u043d\u0438\u043c \u0444\u0456\u043d\u0456\u0448\u043d\u0438\u043c \u043e\u0437\u0434\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f\u043c.
\n\u041f\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0432\u0456\u0440\u0435\u043d\u043e \u0437\u0433\u0456\u0434\u043d\u043e \u0432\u0438\u043c\u043e\u0433 \u0441\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0434\u0430\u0440\u0442\u0456\u0432 \u0456 \u0434\u043e\u0432\u0435\u0434\u0435\u043d\u043e \u0435\u043a\u0441\u043f\u0435\u0440\u0438\u043c\u0435\u043d\u0442\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0438\u043c \u0448\u043b\u044f\u0445\u043e\u043c \u0432\u0438\u0441\u043e\u043a\u0443 \u0437\u043d\u043e\u0441\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0456\u0439\u043a\u0456\u0441\u0442\u044c \u043b\u0438\u0446\u0435\u0432\u043e\u0457 \u043f\u043e\u0432\u0435\u0440\u0445\u043d\u0456 \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0456\u0430\u043b\u0456\u0432 \u0434\u043b\u044f \u0432\u0435\u0440\u0445\u0443 \u0432\u0437\u0443\u0442\u0442\u044f, \u0430 \u0441\u0430\u043c\u0435 \u041a\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0443 \u043e\u0437\u0434\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0444\u0456\u043d\u0456\u0448\u043d\u0438\u043c\u0438 \u043a\u043e\u043c\u043f\u043e\u0437\u0438\u0446\u0456\u044f\u043c\u0438 \u0456 \u0433\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0432\u0438\u0445 \u0432\u0438\u0440\u043e\u0431\u0456\u0432, \u0437\u0434\u0430\u0442\u043d\u0456\u0441\u0442\u044c \u043c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0456\u0430\u043b\u0443 \u0434\u043e \u0431\u0430\u0433\u0430\u0442\u043e\u0440\u0430\u0437\u043e\u0432\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0437\u0433\u0438\u043d\u0443, \u0440\u043e\u0437\u0442\u044f\u0433\u0443, \u043c\u043e\u043a\u0440\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0456 \u0441\u0443\u0445\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0442\u0435\u0440\u0442\u044f.
\n\u041f\u0456\u0434\u0442\u0432\u0435\u0440\u0434\u0436\u0435\u043d\u043e \u0432\u0438\u0441\u043e\u043a\u0456 \u0435\u043a\u0441\u043f\u043b\u0443\u0430\u0442\u0430\u0446\u0456\u0439\u043d\u0456 \u0445\u0430\u0440\u0430\u043a\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0438\u0441\u0442\u0438\u043a\u0438 \u0432\u0437\u0443\u0442\u0442\u044f.
\n\u0414\u043e\u0432\u0435\u0434\u0435\u043d\u043e \u0435\u043a\u0441\u043f\u0435\u0440\u0438\u043c\u0435\u043d\u0442\u0430\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0438\u043c \u0448\u043b\u044f\u0445\u043e\u043c \u0434\u043e\u0446\u0456\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0456\u0441\u0442\u044c \u0434\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0445 \u0440\u043e\u0431\u0456\u0442.
\n\u041a\u043b\u044e\u0447\u043e\u0432\u0456 \u0441\u043b\u043e\u0432\u0430:<\/strong> \u0440\u043e\u0437\u0440\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f, \u0442\u0435\u0445\u043d\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0433\u0456\u044f, \u0444\u0456\u043d\u0456\u0448\u043d\u0435 \u043e\u0437\u0434\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u044f, \u044f\u043a\u0456\u0441\u0442\u044c, \u0437\u043d\u043e\u0441\u043e\u0441\u0442\u0456\u0439\u043a\u0456\u0441\u0442\u044c, \u0444\u043e\u0440\u043c\u0430, \u0448\u043a\u0456\u0440\u0430, \u0441\u0442\u0438\u043b\u044c, \u0432\u0438\u0440\u0456\u0431.<\/p>\n

\u0420\u043e\u0437\u0448\u0438\u0440\u0435\u043d\u0430 \u0430\u043d\u043e\u0442\u0430\u0446\u0456\u044f \u0430\u043d\u0433\u043b\u0456\u0439\u0441\u044c\u043a\u043e\u044e \u043c\u043e\u0432\u043e\u044e<\/strong><\/p>\n

In today’s conditions it is fashionable and affordable for all people to make shoes to order. Living standards have changed, so the traditional concept of making shoes to order due to physiological needs or deviations in the feet of consumers has been added to the production of elegant model, casual, theatrical, stage, ceremonial shoes for all, without foot pathology. This segment of products includes shoes in the style of grunge.
\nIn certain segments of the population of Ukraine, the so-called “golden youth”, making shoes to order is a way of life and a certain status that allows them to feel special. And this is true to some extent, because the manufacturer of footwear enterprises of large, medium and even small capacity focuses on the requirements and needs of the mass buyer and can not fulfill the wishes of a particular person.
\nThe design features of grunge style footwear are investigated in the article.
\nThe design of footwear, technological stages of its production by the individual order and step-by-step technology of finishing of finished products is developed.
\nA package of design and technological documentation for products of this segment has been developed.
\nSamples of models of men’s shoes in grunge style with different color finishes are made.
\nTested according to the requirements of the standards and experimentally proven high wear resistance of the front surface of the materials for the upper shoes, namely Krast decorated with finishing compositions and finished products, the ability of the material to repeated bending, stretching, wet and dry friction.
\nHigh performance characteristics of footwear are confirmed.
\nThe expediency of these works is proved experimentally.
\nKey words:<\/strong> development, technology, finishing, quality, wear resistance, shape, leather, style, product.<\/p>\n

References<\/strong><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. https:\/\/www.miraton.ua\/fashioncocktail\/derzkiy-stil-granzh-bunt-protiv-glamura-ili-trend-sezona.html<\/li>\n
  2. Mark Jacobs on grunge. URL:http:\/\/www.lookatme.ru\/flow\/posts\/fashion-radar\/85081-granzh<\/li>\n
  3. http:\/\/www.kendafarben.it\/.<\/li>\n
  4. it. URL: http: \/\/biar.it\/homy\/? Lang = en.<\/li>\n
  5. r.l. URL: http: \/\/www.iexi.com\/guest\/en\/home.<\/li>\n
  6. https:\/\/atk.kiev.ua\/g22111750-kraski-finishi-iexi.<\/li>\n
  7. Lipskyi, N. Pervaia, O. Okhmat, O. Mokrousova, A. Babych. Assessment of performance using compositions in crust leather decoration. Eastern-European journal of enterprise technologies ISSN 1729-3774, Volume 6, Page 6 \/1 (109), 2021, 57-63 (2021):\u00a0DOI: 10.15587\/1729-4061.2021.224226<\/li>\n
  8. Garkavenko S.S., Babych A.I., Okhmat O.A., Lipsky T.M. Research of quality indicators of compositions for finishing of leather semi-finished product Krast. Herald of Khmelnytsky National University. Technical sciences. 2020. \u2116 5. S. 117 – 126.<\/li>\n
  9. Danilkovich A.G., Grishchenko I.M., Lishchuk V.I. Innovative technologies of production of leather fur materials and products: monograph \/ A.G. Danylkovych, I.M. Grishchenko, V.I. Lishchuk [etc.] – K.: Phoenix, 2012. – 344 p.<\/li>\n
  10. Andreeva O.A., Grishchenko I.M., Zvarych I.T. Features of leather and fur raw materials: monograph. – Ukraine, K.: The world of success. – 2018. – 451 p.<\/li>\n
  11. Textile and leather materials and household products. Basic hygienic requirements: DSTU 4239-2003 – [Effective from 01-10-2004]. – Kyiv: Derzhspozhyvstandart Ukrainy, 2004. – 24 p.<\/li>\n
  12. Personal protective equipment. Household shoes. Technical conditions (EN ISO 20345: 2004 \/ \u0410\u0421: 2007 \/ \u04101: 2007, IDT): DSTU EN ISO 20345: 2009. – [Effective from 2012-01-01] – 2012. \u2013 11 \u0440. – (National standard of Ukraine).<\/li>\n
  13. DSTU ISO 5404: 2007 Leather. Physico-mechanical tests.<\/li>\n
  14. GOST 938.11 Leather. Tensile test method.<\/li>\n
  15. GOST 13868 Chrome leather for shoe uppers. Method for determining the resistance of the coating to repeated bending.<\/li>\n
  16. GOST 939 Leather for shoe uppers. Technical conditions.<\/li>\n
  17. GOST 938.29 Leather. Method of testing the resistance of paint to dry and wet friction.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

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