СПОСІБ ОЦІНКИ ВПЛИВУ КОНТУРІВ ВИШИТОГО ЕЛЕМЕНТА НА ФІЗИКО-МЕХАНІЧНІ ВЛАСТИВОСТІ ТКАНИНИ
METHOD OF ESTIMATING THE EFFECT OF CONTOURS EMBROIDERED ELEMENT ON PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRICS
Сторінки: 187-191. Номер: №4, 2021 (299) 
Автори:
Г. А. РІПКА
ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0172-867X
e-mail: Textiles.snu@gmail.com
Східноукраїнський національний університет імені Володимира Даля
I. О. ЗАСОРНОВА
ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6655-5023
e-mail: izasornova@gmail.com
Хмельницький національний університет
RIPKA Galyna A.
Volodymyr Dahl East Ukrainian National University, Severodonetsk, Ukraine
ZASORNOVA Iryna O.,
Khmelnytskyi National University, Ukraine
DOI: https://www.doi.org/10.31891/2307-5732-2021-299-4-187-191
Рецензія/Peer review : 08.08.2021 р.
Надрукована/Printed : 26.08.2021 р.
Анотація мовою оригіналу
В статті розглянуто питання поліпшення якості нанесення вишитого елемента на текстильний матеріал, з метою підвищення конкурентоспроможності швейних виробів на вітчизняному ринку товарів та послуг. Встановлено, що під час машинного вишивання найбільш руйнівним є границя системи «тканина-вишивка». Запропоновано обирати хвилеподібний контур вишитого елемента.
Ключові слова: комп’ютерна вишивка, руйнування текстильного матеріалу, контур рисунка, якість вишивки.
Розширена анотація англійською мовою
Computer embroidery is one of the modern types of garment decoration. But in our country this industry is insufficiently studied. Instead, today there are entire associations of embroidery companies abroad, periodicals are published, special schools operate, international conferences are held, and Internet conferences on computer embroidery are organized.
The article discusses the issues of improving the quality of applying an embroidered element to a textile material in order to increase the competitiveness of garments in the domestic market of goods and services.
It was found that during machine embroidery, the most vulnerable point is the border of the “fabric-embroidery” system. If the embroidered pattern along the contours of the edge is characterized as a “straight line”, then the maximum value of the destruction of the samples at the warp occurs with tatami stitches, and weft with tatami stitches and zigzag. When the pattern is embroidered in the form of a circle, the destruction already occurs not only along the perimeter of the “arc line”, but also in the middle. If the embroidered pattern is a rectangle with wavy edges, in contrast to the straight and arc border lines in the system “fabric-embroidery”, the process of destruction occurs within, starting from the upper and then the lower contours. There is also a decrease in rupture characteristics at (S), (Z), and (T) –stitches.
When studying the effect of embroidery needles on the physical and mechanical characteristics of textile materials, it was experimentally established that this process should be attributed to the destructive, the degree of which depends on their number, as well as the step and type of stitches. This is evidenced by the increase in the values of the coefficient of air permeability of the samples of materials and the decrease in the breaking indicators in comparison with the initial values.
Thus, the research and their analysis shows that the degree of change in rupture characteristics, as a control indicator, primarily depends on the contour of the edge of the pattern, as well as the type of computer embroidery weave, but the greatest influence of these factors occurs when the geometry of the system boundary ” fabric-embroidery “is a straight line, and the smallest – a wavy line that does not contradict the mathematical model, the conclusions of which were used in the design of the embroidered element for children’s clothing (pants).
Keywords: computer embroidery, destruction of textile material, contour pattern, quality of embroidery.
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